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In Conversation


Published by Stephanie Sant | In Conversation, Fashion
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Having discovered MariusPetrus through his previous collection showing at Runway Malta in March 2011, I had taken an interest in the collection’s vibrant colors expressed in linear prints on streamlined clothing. Fresh off the catwalk at Berlin Fashion Week, his new collection ‘Shattered Grey’ takes a darker twist as one is immediately taken into this imaginary post-apocalyptic sartorial world where the angular printed pants and jackets are elegantly camouflaged with a grey ash-stricken background upon viewing the garments. Postmodernism has long been expressed through literature, art and film with the idea of survival in the precarious future, and now MariusPetrus transmutes this idea through his clothing.

Stephanie Sant interviews Marius Op t’Eynde; the young designer behind MariusPetrus, and discusses his darker side in his latest designs, his creative process and his opinion on 3D print being a whole new medium for fashion design.

How does your new collection differ from your previous one?

The A/W 13 Collection continues the signature of the brand MariusPetrus whilst taking a slightly darker turn. Inspired by a world that gets harsher every day, the collection is about self-preservation and survival. This reflects in the oversized silhouettes, the use of sturdy fabrics and graphic prints.
For this collection the signature digital prints resemble the look of shattered glass, organized into dazzling monochromatic patterns. The MA-1 bomber jacket is used as a symbol of power and strength with references to this iconic piece returning throughout the collection.

Where have you showed your collections so far?

Amsterdam, Arnhem, Malta and Berlin.

What are your favorite fabrics to work with and why?

That really depends on the season. As of lately I have been developing a crush on special and heavyweight jerseys, as seen in the latest collection, because they have great features of shape and texture. I also like natural materials, wool, linen, as much as crazy nylons, as long as it has a certain modern feel to it.

Do you prefer sketching designs or actually constructing them?

That's a difficult one. I like sketching, from early sketches to a more advanced phase when I add the details in Illustrator, but there's still a lot of development when the actual piece is being constructed and it comes to life - which also keeps that part interesting. I guess I just like the designing part most, and for me that consists of both sketching and constructing.

What has been your career highlight so far?

My career span hasn’t been that long yet, but there have been quite a few highlights - Showing the S/S12 at Amsterdam Fashion week, presenting the first commercial collection S/S13 at Berlin Fashion Week and sending out my first order - I already have quite a few things to look forward to for 2013!

What's your favourite fashion city to visit?

I haven't been able to travel as much as I would want to, can't wait to discover Asia - but as far as Europe goes, it's a close call between Paris and London, both with their specific pros and cons – I particularly always love to go to Paris for the Premiere Vision fabric fair.

How would you define your city's fashion?

Antwerp is quite a small city, but there are a lot of nice stores and quite a few big designer names come from Antwerp. The Fashion museum (MOMU) is also really nice, they have world-class exhibitions. So there's definitely a big interest in fashion, though there's not a really big scene and not really that much happening, it’s still a nice place to be in as a designer.

With today's evolving 3D printing, will you start to consider using more than one traditional medium for your fashion designs?
There's a lot going on in the digital field what with 3d printing, digital garment printing, digital jacquard weaving etc. which indeed opens up to a lot of new perspectives for designers. I would definitely like to get into the new developments of 3d-printing, but only if they truly add value to my designs and not just for the sake of being high tech. For now I am working on a project that involves digital weaving, which will take my prints to a whole new level – I’m also incorporating a new (digital) way of interpreting the wishes of the customers - more details coming soon!

Stephanie is currently finishing a degree in Communications and English at the University of Malta. She has been immersing herself into the fashion industry through various angles. Having signed as a model with SO Management , she partook in various shoots, shows and events both locally and internationally. She also assisted and styled for various local photo-shoots.  Her love for fashion goes hand in hand with her appreciation of aesthetics, photography, and self-expression.
Category In Conversation, Fashion
Tags mariuspetrus